🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.